| Saturday Magazine |
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Drinking tea fosters good manners, respect for others Westerners are likely to think of India and China when talking about tea from Asia, and also Japan for its rich tradition of green tea. As for Korea, few are aware the country also has a long history of drinking tea, or "cha" in Korean, and its ceremonies. There actually existed a government agency in charge of the ceremonies, called "Dabang" in the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). A Korean tea expert, who was at the center of an active college movement to revive traditional tea culture in the early 1980s, believes that despite the popularity of coffee in Korea, the prospect of the tea industry and culture flourishing is bright thanks to tea’s health and educational benefits. "Serving tea helps to build character. We hope that some day schools will introduce it as part of their regular curriculum," said Kim Hai-man, general secretary of the Korea Tea Culture Association, in a recent interview. The organization is committed to promoting Korean tea culture at home and abroad and has churned out some 600 teachers since 1991. Kim said parents whose children studied tea etiquette at the association have phoned to express surprise in the change in children’s manners, such as using both hands to pass something and showing respect for elders. "This is because a person must be considerate to another person while brewing and serving tea. I am not saying that serving coffee doesn’t involve some of that, but more so with tea," Kim said. "Tea is a great unifying source bringing together families and communities." The first official mention of tea in Korea is found in "The Annals of Three Kingdoms," or "Samguksagi" written in 1145. It notes that Daeryeom, an emissary of Unified Silla Dynasty, brought tea seeds back from Tang China in 828 and planted them on Mt. Jiri by royal decree. By the Goryeo Dynasty, everyone was drinking tea and conducting tea ceremonies as part of their religious services. However, toward the end of the dynasty, drinking tea had lost favour with commoners due to the high taxes levied on tea and, thus, became a source of resentment. The Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) saw even further deterioration of tea culture with the implementation of a policy known as "sungyueokbul’ or "promoting Confucianism and suppressing Buddhism" since tea culture had blossomed around Buddhist temples. Interest in traditional tea was revived around the 1960s, and tea drinkers, especially after the 1980s, have grown explosively. It’s not difficult to join one of many hobby groups who cherish tea and want to learn the history and etiquettes associated with the traditional beverage. "The revival of tea culture in the 1980s was closely connected to the release of many medical reports proving medicinal effects of drinking tea, in addition to a campaign to restore old traditions at the time," Kim explained. The spread of tea was also further fuelled by the release of Sullok tea by AmorePacific, a cosmetics company, beginning in 1983, making tea an everyday item. Made from tea trees that grow on Mt. Halla on Jeju Island, the brand now boasts a 55 percent share of the domestic tea market. Nevertheless, tea culture has a long way to go. |
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