The
work related to any occupation, when you think of it, is full of
metaphors that reference life. Life lessons. Take lace work.
Nimble fingers moving the beeralu from side to side, thread over
thread, thread under thread, in practiced perfection to produce
intricate pattern finally set on a table cloth, handkerchief,
wall-hanging or garment; you have to get it right, one miss and
you compromise geometry and order, rob theme song of magic.
In the case of women in Mirissa, it was not
carelessness that wrecked life, life work and lifestyle. There
was no subtlety in the movement of sea, of seaquake and wave; it
was not about error in shuttle among fingers. There was poetry,
though and everyone knows it, tremendous and tragic poetry. They
had to begin from scratch; a different weaving was necessary, a
different coming together, a different patterning, so to speak.
SAPSRI (South Asia Partnership – Sri Lanka), an
organization that has a 25 year history of engagement with
populations in need of development assistance, teamed up with
HSBC, ‘the world’s local bank’ which was looking for a different
kind of CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) project, and
discovered that the tsunami had not taken away the potential for
recovery and the ability to create beauty.
In the post-tsunami scenario, it would have been
sufficient to provide the lace-makers with the tools that had
lost and that alone would have helped them start believing in a
different tomorrow. SAPSRI found, however, that beeralu was a
commercially unprofitable venture and consequently that this
traditional art form was dying a natural death.
And so it became a project. The first step was
to organize the lace-makers. Six societies were formed in
Mirissa, each consisting of 25-30 traditional lace-makers.
The challenge was to up the quality to match the
demands of a more sophisticated market. The challenge was to
obtain an export quality product and also to lay the groundwork
to link product with market, local and international.
With respect to the former, the lace-makers were
persuaded to move from strictly white to the use of coloured
yarn. According to Prithiva Perera, Business Development Manager
of SAPSRI, there had been some hesitancy at the beginning, but
the idea had caught on pretty fast. Keeping in mind the demands
of the market, the design-range was also broadened, as
elaboration of traditional patterns as well as totally new ones,
introduced through graph quality stencils. Another important
difference was the effort to produce woven corners as opposed to
sewed ones.
The first two innovations were embraced partly
because they fetched double the usual price with additional
incentives for the use of colour. Weaving corners is yet to be
perfected, Prithiva said, but pointed out that a 30% success
rate is an encouraging sign.
HSBC, which has pledged a total of 6 million
rupees for the project, helped by providing the material,
equipment and paying for their training. The 3 batches of
lace-makers were given 4-months of training. In addition, a
training manual which included designs, was also produced to
improve the overall quality of the work.
It is not just the lace, of course. Lace lines,
decorates and therefore is essentially an embellishment of some
other product. Here the challenge was to create products that
looked different, products that combined the best of linen and
cotton, instead of the regular raw cotton and sheeting in white.
The next step, naturally, was to identify
entrepreneurs who produced complementing items with which lace
could be combined. Shoes, garments, batiks and bags of different
sizes and shapes and for different purposes were considered as
SAPSRI went about creating a network of demand for lace.
SAPSRI helped link the Mirissa lace-workers with
2 sewing societies in Galle, ensuring demand remains at least
constant. At this point a representative from Danish Church Aid
seeing their work, helped them find a retail market in Denmark,
giving the project a much needed boost.
Today the beeralu artists earn almost four times
what they earned before the tsunami, thanks to all these
measures. D.H. Gnanawathi, 56, who has been making lace since
the age of 7, as had her mother and grandmother before her, is
full of praise for the project, pointing out that a dying
traditional handicraft has now a very real future. Her two
daughters, T.H. Disna Nilanjani and R.H. NImali Dilrukshi, have
also enthusiastically embraced lace-making as a full time
vocation. The project has directly benefited approximately 160
women in Mirissa. A few of them have actually started sewing,
enhancing thereby their earning capacities.
All this is not enough, obviously. A regular and
growing market needs to be created to ensure long term
sustainability of the venture and indeed the sustainability of
livelihoods based on beeralu. This is why SAPSRI and HSBC have
organized an exhibition of the work of these women.
‘Paramparaven’ is an exhibition and sale
promoting the virtues of hand-made lace in Sri Lanka, showcasing
an uplifted beeralu trade as well as silver jewellery made in
the coastal region hit by the tsunami. The exhibits are all
creations by village entrepreneurs mentored and assisted by
SAPSRI and HSBC. SAPSRI hopes that this event will make it
possible for the beneficiaries to become independent, after
which SAPSRI will revert to a more supervisory role in the
venture.
There has been shutting in this project, the movement of many
forces prompted by a need to revive a dying traditional industry
as well as uplifting the lives of a community that has suffered
much on account of the tsunami. The work stands on its own
merit. It tells of talent, heritage and potential. You will not
be doing these women a favour by checking out their work and
making one or two or more purchases. There is value for money
here. It is as simple as that.