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Nile Cruise

I was introduced to the Land of the Pharaohs and pyramids when I was about 13 years old. My teacher made it so interesting that I dreamed that one day I would visit this mystical land. Well, it took me several decades before my dream came true. My niece, Savitha, called me one day and asked me whether I would like to go on a Nile cruise. My response was in the affirmative. Within weeks, Savitha and another niece, Krishani, and four other friends, were on our way to the Land of the Pharaohs.

Our journey into the past began in Luxor. We were first taken to MS MOJITO. This was to be our base for the next few days. Luxor is a beautiful, clean city. It has many horse drawn carriages that the tourists patronize, but not a drop of dung pollutes the roads. This intrigued me until I found that a little bag was attached to the front of the carriage, which was tied to the rear end of the horse. The droppings were easily collected, and turned into environmentally friendly fertilizer.

Our first visit was to the Luxor Temple. It really takes one’s breath away, these huge buildings with intricate designs carved into them. Every stroke, every bird and animal had a meaning. There was no room for error. We were fortunate that our first Guide knew his subject, and also had much patience. He took our questions, explaining how the ancient engineers used the weather, the rising Nile waters and wooden pegs to cut out and transport the huge bricks, especially the obelisks. The Karnark Temple was as awe inspiring as the Luxor Temple. Of the other monuments we visited, the one that astounded me was the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut. It was not only the temple but the whole area, dry arid sandy hills, that really impressed me. The colour was unbelievable. For us, who take our trees and wooly skies for granted, this was different. It was stark earthy brown of the desert sand, not a tree, not a blade of grass, not even a date palm, and a turquoise blue sky rising up behind the barren hills was simply awesome. It took my breath away. One of the smaller temples that we visited was more or less a hospital. The stone carvings showed the medical instruments used in those far away days; it also had a carving of a ‘birthing’ chair. Nearby was a deep well, which was called a Nilo metre. The ancient priests knew how to read the rising and ebbing of the waters of the Nile. As did the ancients, the modern Egyptians too depend on the Nile. A river that has served humanity for centuries.

The papyrus shop, is a ‘must visit’ place for every tourist. As we entered the shop, we were served with a very tasty drink made of hibiscus. Then we had a lecture together with a simple demonstration of how the papyrus paper was made. On request they would write your name in hieroglyphics. There was much to see and much to purchase here.

Up the Nile, and we came to a Lock, which enabled the ship to sail from one level of the river to the next. It was an intricate and patient operation that fascinated us. There were also the ‘sailing markets’. Boat traders surrounded our ship and kept throwing their wares to us. It was quite an experience.

On the last night on the MOJITO, we had a formal dinner and a floorshow put up by the crew. The dancer wore double flared skirts with loops and made the skirts and himself dance in a mind-boggling swirl.

Well, it was time for us to move on. We took the night train from Aswan to Cairo. This was a special ride and the food was good and the berths clean and comfortable. It was towards morning that we reached Cairo. The waking up sights were much like our own. By the side of the railway line farmers grew fruits, peaches, pears, apples, and mangoes which were all in bloom, and grape vines, too. Donkeys were their favoured form of transport. Our tour guide was at the railway station to meet us. We were taken to the Grand Pyramid Hotel, a lovely comfortable hotel. After refreshing ourselves, we were ready for the next leg of our adventure, the Pyramids of course. They were impressive, but I liked the temples better. My real adventure was the camel ride. Both my nieces and I decided to ride camels. I have no words to describe this adventure. One thing I can say, my backache vanished! That night we had a sound and light show of the pyramids and the sphinx.

Early the next morning we went to Alexandria. It is the City if Alexander the Great. We just touched the museum, the botanical gardens, the catacombs, and the Mediterranean Sea. It is a city that needs time to explore. However, what we saw was beautiful. Back to Cairo, and a dinner cruise, and to the hotel almost at midnight. Our tour guide on the Cairo leg was excellent.

The Cairo traffic is some experience. One could be in a jam for literally hours; it is chaotic, and the dust makes it terrible.

If one could afford it, this is a Cruise one should take, but check your tour operators before you take a step out of our land.

Sujatha Samarajiwa

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