From the house where he was born to the churches where he was choirboy and organist, the great composer Giacomo Puccini lives on in the walled Italian city of Lucca.

Straying a little off the beaten tourist track will bring you to the birthplace of Puccini - composer of such well-loved operas as Madame Butterfly, La Boheme and Tosca.

Lucca's imposing 16th century ramparts enclose what is in effect a compact village - about 30km north east of Pisa airport and 80km from Florence.

Originally founded by the Etruscans, Lucca was colonised in the 2nd century BC by the Romans, who left behind their typical grid-patterned streets. It became a self-governing city state in the 12th century and the powerful city ramparts are among the best preserved such fortifications in Italy. They were

built (with perhaps more elegance than was required for military purposes) in order to defend against covetous rivals like Florence and Pisa, a city grown hugely prosperous from the lucrative silk trade.

Within the city walls you can see neat and well, preserved, Romanesque churches and 600-year-old buildings. You can savour the misty romance of the place by peacefully meandering your way along narrow streets where cars are tolerated but not welcomed.

Admire the quaint little churches here like Santa Maria Forisportam at the gateway to the forum - and the more impressive ones like the Church of San Michele in Foro, where Puccini sang as a choirboy and the beautiful basilica of San Giovanni in the very heart of the city. It is here that the composer was baptised on 23 December 1858 and today, it is home to regular evening performances of his music - providing one of the highlights of my stay. Listening to the concert by a beautiful young soprano in the hallowed precincts of the softly lit church was a moving experience.

Then there is the awe-inspiring Duomo, where Puccini was once organist. This cathedral is dedicated to San Martino, the Roman officer who is usually depicted in paintings and sculptures giving his cloak to a poor, cold beggar.

Also within the Duomo’s intricately carved exterior is kept the most precious relic in Lucca, the Volto Santo di Lucca or Sacred Countenance - a cedar-wood crucifix and image of Christ which according to legend was carved by the disciple Nicodemus.

The Duomo also has some glorious examples of medieval Italian art - one of the most striking, being the tomb of Ilaria del Caretro, the marble figure of the lady reposing serene in death with her little dog lying faithfully at her feet.

If you haven’t yet had your fill of Puccini, you can visit Casa di Puccini (at 9 Corte San Lorenzo) - the modest house where he was born.

And each year, a summer Puccini opera festival is held in the nearby town of Torre del Lago, where Puccini spent much of his adult life and where he is buried.

Italy's great Cities of art - Rome, Florence, Milan and Venice certainly provide a feast for the senses. But if you want to experience some medieval charm and romantic sweetness, take the track less beaten to places like Lucca.

You will be well rewarded - even if (like me) you are not a lover of opera.

Getting there: From Rome, trains take 3-4 hours (change at Florence). Cost approximately C50

More information is available at:

1. www.luccaturismo.it (Lucca tourist' office)

2. www.Puccini el asualucca.com (Annual Puccini International festival